Sunday, October 16, 2005

Elefant

So, I was in an English bookshop Friday, when a man came in, and asked the clerk for assistance finding the book “What Color is my Elephant?” The clerk was quiet for a minute, and I was eavesdropping and nearly pissing myself in the corner. “You mean, What Color is my Parachute?”
“Ja, ja. Parachute. Nicht Elephant.”

Anyway… things here have been busy. Nissa left just over a week ago, and since then, I have been essentially working full time to get my thesis done. It is a lot of work, and while it is great that I find the subject matter interesting, sometimes I get distracted from the task at hand to look into whatever it is that catches my eye.

I have been totally embroiled in Holocaust studies. How to teach it, finding relevant sites here in Munich, creating learning activities. An interesting anecdote, I think, is that while Nissa was here, we went to Dachau. When we were done for the day, we were outside waiting for our bus, when an older man from somewhere in middle America started up a conversation. I believe he opened with… “So now do you believe that this Holocaust thing isn’t a hoax?” Whatever. We chatted for a while, and he asked where we were from. I told him San Francisco.

“Well, when I went to San Francisco, you know what fell upon me? Those ho-mo-sexuals. I say just leave me alone!”

Oh the irony of it all, we weren’t even off the grounds yet! I am not sure if this man read the installation in the museum about the persecution of gays at Dachau. I didn’t remind him. But here I am, just over a week later trying to create meaningful Holocaust-related activities, or at least, meaningful points for self-questioning, and I find myself reflecting on that brief moment. How could I have better responded?



Last night, here in Munich, there was a special event where all the museums stay open until 2:00 a.m., and you can buy one ticket and check out as many museums as you have the patience for! The White Rose museum at the University was hosting a special event, and the last surviving member of the student-run resistance organization gave a talk. I convinced Todd and Monika to go with me.

I’m sure the lecture was fascinating. Ha. Todd and I have limited vocabularies, and have not yet learned the past tense. Too funny. Still, I enjoyed the experience of being there, and Monika explained, after the fact, much of what Franz Müller discussed…. Life in Munich during National Socialism, how the court system that punished these crimes was set up by Hitler unconstitutionally, etc.

After this lecture, we went to dinner, and then to the Lenbachhaus. The Lenbach houses works from the Blaue Reiter art movement, which started in Munich, and includes artists such as Klee and Kandinsky. I thought it was an especially nice collection, and museum. It was great to see so many people crowding the museums at all hours. There were special busses set up which ran every ten minutes to bring you to the next location. After our two museum experiences we decided to call it quits. Todd went home to watch baseball, and Monika and I went for drinks. We barely made a dent in the 90 museums staying open after hours. Next time….

What else? Oh yes, I ran the Munich Marathon last weekend! Since I had been essentially training with my friend Monika, I decided to go ahead and run the damn race. It was a great way to see parts of the city I had not yet explored, and the race was really well organized. It took me 5:02 to finish.

The day after the race was spent at Frauentag (women’s day) at the public baths. The outdoor pools were as warm as bath water, and had fun areas where you are pushed around the pool in loops with water pressure. I have never experienced anything like this and we couldn’t help but laugh loudly as we were helplessly pushed around the pool. The grumpy old lady in front of us was not pleased. I also enjoyed the saunas and a massage. My good old American modesty was definitely put to the test here, but the baths were really fun, relaxing, and a good glimpse into the local culture. Unfortunately, my post-marathon limp and shuffle persisted for another day.

And really, I am done rambling now. The week ahead will be more work on my project, as well as preparations to start my internship (finally), which begins on the 24th. And Pope Benedict, if you are reading this, let me know if you need anything from the homeland. Todd and I will be in Rome for a quick visit next weekend....

I will leave you with a few random photos from Nissa’s visit… the flea circus (yes, live fleas perform amazing tricks, my favorite being the flea-sized carriage races), a bubble wrapped and taxidermied horse at Nymphenberg, and one from our series of self-portraits in shiny things, also at Nymphenberg Palace.







Liebe Grüße und Tschüß!
Mel